Virtus

A stone's throw from the Marché d'Aligre, the navy-blue façade of this restaurant conceals a vintage interior strewn with Art deco details that is reminiscent of a Parisian apartment and which is the work of Argentinian architect Marcelo Joulia. A talented couple is at the helm: Frédéric Lorimier in the kitchen and Camille Gouyer who graciously supervises the front of house. After honing his talent with the greats (not least Arnaud Donckele in Saint-Tropez), the chef crafts a meticulous, almost surgical score. Think seasonal produce, virtuoso technique and exquisitely aromatic sauces, e.g. line-caught brill meunière, green pea ragout, stuffed morels and a vin jaune-laced sauce made with the peapods, or smoked chicken roasted in savory butter with a wafer-thin tartlet of confit legs, sautéed girolles and a punchy gravy.