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Matan Zaken has thrown out the culinary textbook! After globetrotting around the world and working as the private chef to top fashion houses, with stints at Frenchie in London, the George V with Christian Le Squer and Saturne with Sven Chartier, the Franco-Israeli chef now operates in this astonishing vaulted cellar opposite the Palais Royal. In a buzzy vibe created by one large table d’hôte, he proposes a Scandinavian-style creative menu that draws on multiple influences (notably Japanese and Middle Eastern) and a wide range of culinary techniques (low-temperature, binchotan charcoal, fermentation, brine pickling, etc). An example: Brittany lobster flanked by a cardamon bisque, roast cauliflower with roe and a pistachio and orchid tuber seasoning. Slick, attentive service.