Nacre

In a pared-back interior dominated by wood and white details, Marc-Antoine Lepage (ex Les Foudres and Le Mirazur, Menton) and Adeline Lesage (who also worked at Les Foudres) pool their talents to craft modern, delicate cuisine in a carte blanche menu. A medley of subtly contrasting artichokes (the house signature) delights the tastebuds, as do the scallops, cooked two ways: in a carpaccio with a gin and leek oil dressing and roasted and coated with a white wine and leek emulsion. Surf and turf ingredients jostle for pride of place in a repertory that demonstrates a clear fondness for inventive recipes that play with textures. Cheerful, unfussy welcome.