L'Inattendu - Domaine de Locguénolé

The decadently revamped Domaine de Locguénolé comprises a 19C château and an 18C Breton manor house set in 120ha of wooded grounds that are also home to a "farmyard" with chickens, goats, ducks and turkeys, as well as a kitchen garden, orchard and beehives that supply the restaurant. The luxurious and elegant dining area, reminiscent of the heyday of the East India Company, lies beneath an industrial-vibe conservatory structure surrounded by plants. This is the heady atmosphere in which chef Yann Maget (Meilleur Ouvrier de France 2023 and stints in top kitchens to his name) serves his precise and refined cuisine. The spotlight is on Brittany, with kari gosse, boudin noir, cuttlefish and andouille gracing each plate. Top-drawer ingredients crafted with skill and technical expertise in a constant quest to bring out flavours – with sauces that are full-bodied and robust. Think squid brilliantly paired with pork and enhanced with sauce charcutière, or sea bass with shellfish and cauliflower.