Anne de Bretagne

(Temporarily closed for renovations, reopening planned for spring) On the south bank of the Loire estuary, this imposing contemporary building overlooks the small port of Gravette. Talented chef Mathieu Guibert, a local lad from the Retz region and a farmer’s son, has forged solid ties, founded on respect, with producers from the region who are as passionate about what they do as he is. It is no surprise that seafood plays a star role here. Depending on the catch of the day, the menu might feature lightly cooked prawns, pommes soufflées (‘puffed potatoes’) and an infusion of green cardamon; risotto of haddock, langoustine carpaccio and parmesan emulsion; stuffed monkfish, mushrooms and celery with a beef and lobster jus… Slick, cheerful service by Claire Bâcle. What’s not to like?